Was it sheer recklessness on my part? Attempting to scale up
more than 1000m up a steep mountain when my body was still battling a bad chest
infection. And in clear defiance of doctor’s orders.
The day before the flight out, I have already been certified
unfit for flying and physical activities. With that simple note from the doctor
I could apply for a full refund of the flight ticket and advance payment to the
tour operator. So my expenses were recoverable.
But getting a refund from my travel insurance was not in the
game plan and certainly not what I had in mind. I have been romancing the
mountain for a good part of this year and was not about to surrender this
courtship. So throwing caution to the wind, I joined my friends at the airport for
the early morning flight out to Kota Kinabalu, capital of Sabah in the island
of Borneo. To get up close and personal with the mountain. Mount Kinabalu, to
be exact and at a height of 4095m, the highest mountain in South East Asia. It
sits high up in my bucket list of things to do, before I die.
We reached KK after a 2 hour flight. I felt queasy
throughout the flight and doubts started creeping in my mind. Was I being
reckless? I had been sick for a good two weeks, having caught a stubborn virus
in Scotland and an extended rest at home might be what I need. But after a warm
soupy noodle lunch at a local eatery I felt better. The road trip to Kinabalu
Park took another 2 hour drive. We were to spend a night at the park resort. Our
climbing group of 5 comprised of my very good friend J and his son and another
couple. At a height of about 1800m, the air at the Park was crisp and chilly
with the fresh feel of an alpine forest.
But again, I was racked by anxiety and uncertainty if my
weakened body can withstand the punishment ahead. The night before even as we
were relaxing after a satisfying buffet dinner at the resort restaurant, the
frosty air aggravated my coughing. I felt wispy and breathless. My friend J who
had initiated this trip, urged me to try out ½ a sleeping pill that he had
brought along. On any other day I would not touch this stuff. But my sleep for
each night over the last two weeks was punctuated by incessant coughing and I
knew that I could not afford another sleepless night. Not before a day of such taxing
exertion. So I obediently popped in the half pill without thinking too much.
Soon after, the tranquilising effect of the drug began to kick in and I drifted
into slumber-land.
After breakfast we got ready for the climb. I arranged for a
porter to relieve me of carrying my own personal backpack. The 8 kg bag of
stuff I needed to bring up might be too strenuous for my brittle frame to carry
up. We had two porters in all, along with a guide. Our two porters turned out
to be too pint-sized ladies who look like twin sisters. At less than 5 feet
tall each carrying two backpacks, one of which was my own, I could not help
feeling somewhat embarrassed. But it was just my biological male ego playing up
on me. I had to get real and admit that I was not in the best physical state
for this climb in the first place. These
two ladies at around 50 years of age as revealed to us, are as tough as the
granite beneath their feet. They climb the mountain for a living, each capable
of summiting with loads as much as 20kg on their back. Gender and state of health
aside, there is no denying that we city slickers from our bubble world of
affluent living are of less hardy stock. Our guide, Bil appears fit and trim
with a quiet demeanour and sense of self-confidence that belies his youthful
age of 24 years. He had climbed the mountain countless times since he started
as a guide 7 years ago.
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Our guide, Bil briefing us on the route before we started. |
We started the climb from Timpohon Gate, about 5km from the
Park office. I started the climb with some uncertainty, not being sure how my
body would react to the physical strain. Clambering at a slow and measured
pace, the first kilometre felt strenuous but not overly difficult. I could go on. Much of the uphill path for
the first 2-3km was made up of steps, uneven in height but nevertheless
facilitated the ascent. Using both my trekking sticks I found that I could
heave my body up with my arms allowing my upper body to bear
|
Our two lady porters, small in stature but tough as nails. |
part of the upward
exertion instead of relying only on my leg muscles. Still it took close to an
hour to cover a single km of trekking. On flat ground at places like MacRitchie
reservoir where we had trained often we could cover 6 km in slightly more than
an hour. The huge difference is the gradient of the mountain and labouring
against the gravity of our body weight.
With my tattered stamina and poor fitness, each step up the
mountain was a leap of faith. Still, my months of dreaming of this endeavour was
silently unfolding into reality. Scaling the mountain. Taking on the physical
challenge, though that was actually secondary.
The all-powerful draw that beckoned me was the pilgrimage into the heart
of Nature.
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Stepped pathway up the slope |
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Most of the path upwards was rocky and uneven |
After about 3km up, the path turned rocky. Carved against the precipitous slopes, the
rocks and boulders are random in size and arrangement, artistically sculptured
by no less a craftsman as Mother Nature herself. And on both sides of the path,
a frenzy of flora and fauna made up the lush and luxuriant forest, beyond which
lies more plants, darkness and hidden mysteries. At certain stretches of the
ascent, a misty cloud hangs in the air, blurring our view of the landscape but
enhancing its timeless beauty. The tranquillity and rustic freshness of the
mountain was all consuming. Trekking at this slow pace, unfit as I was, my body
had time to slowly acclimatise. I felt none of the altitude sickness that was
reported by a number of bloggers who had experienced it. Instead, amid the
exhaustion I found the climb exhilarating and even invigorating. I knew I made the right decision to venture
up to join my climbing group. It was worth the risks. Worthy of all the
training I had previously put myself thru.
After about 6 hours of climbing, we reached the Laban Rata
rest house, perched at 3200m on the mountain slope. All the climbers have to
stay a night at this rest-house before taking on the last stretch of the
mountain – a trek of about 2.5 km to ascend the final 850m to reach Low’s Peak,
the summit of the mountain. With gradients of close to 70 degrees at some
stretches, this second segment of the climb will be the ultimate test of the
climber’s mental and physical stamina.
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Laban Rata - the rest-house at 3200m up the mountain was a welcoming sight |
I did a reality check. Assessing my own physical condition I
felt that I should not push my luck any further. Not many people would attempt
to scale this mountain unless they are in best state of health and fitness. I
should not subject myself to further risk. The mountain deserved greater
respect.
So along with the lady climber in our group and my friend J,
who had suffered severe muscle cramps and had struggled the last two kilometres
up to the rest-house, we decided to forego the summit. We had embraced the
mountain and intimately savoured both its brutality and beauty. We can always
return another day when we are better prepared for the summit challenge.
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Sweeping view of the valley from Laban Rata |
Once our two other team members descended from the summit and
re-joined us, we began our slow descent down the mountain. I decided to carry
my own backpack. It seems shameful to be trekking without a load strapped on
like all other climbers. But carrying my own pack accorded me the convenience
of going at my own pace instead of sticking close to the porter whenever I needed
a drink or to retrieve items like my rain-coat should the weather change.
In any case, the climb down was not physically exhausting.
But the downward path, along steep precipitous and rocky slopes could mean a
treacherous fall or a broken ankle with a single misstep. This is where my
trekking stick proved priceless, allowing the metal prod to bear a good part of
my body weight to relieve the strain on my ankles and knees.
Our downward trek together was spent mostly in meditative
silence and very soon our group separated from each other and I was walking by
myself. For long stretches there was not another hiker in sight. Ahead or behind.
Except for the constant background cacophony of insects from behind the trees, the
soft shuffling of my shoes against the rugged terrain and plodding of the metal-tip
of my trekking sticks into the dirt, there was an overwhelming sense of calm
and quiet peacefulness.
Not that the downward journey was without dangers of its
own. Once or twice I came close to slipping off a rock and twisting my ankle.
But for my trekking stick digging in quick enough to bear my body weight, my
ankle joint could have suffered more serious impairment. Jenny must have been
watching me from above, keeping me out of harm’s way and my fragile health
intact.
I like to think so.
If not for my rational mind getting in the way. The grand ideas
of heaven and hell. Of pearly gates and eternal lakes of fire. Most religions
worth their salt would have these ideas entrenched as major fixtures in their
doctrine for faithful believers. I am not so sure about such ideas.
What I am sure of is that we are part of this huge reservoir
of terrestrial carbon. When we die we return to be part of this earth and we
give rise to new life as once it gave rise to our own birth. Perhaps this
explains why, with Jenny’s passing my affinity and passion with nature could
only grow stronger. I feel her presence as the wind brushes against my hair and
skin. I see her amongst the trees and hear her whispering as the leaves rustle
in the breeze. Jenny, my dearest Jenny, departed too soon from my life. My only
hope of getting close to you is to commune with nature herself. Tears welling
in my eyes were soon trickling down my face along with the perspiration as I
trudged my way down the enchanted mountain.
For our group, the downward descent took longer than the
journey up. Our legs were soft like
jelly by the time we limped back to Timpohon Gate. Ravenous after the long trek, we helped
ourselves to the buffet spread at the park resort restaurant. This was followed
by a 2 hour drive back to the city and civilisation. We checked into the Promenade Hotel at Kota
Kinabalu to reward ourselves with 4-star comfort.
So Mount Kinabalu proved to me a summit too high to scale,
not being in the best state of health and fitness. But respectfully, I have to
be happy and contented of reaching the 3200m point at Laban Rata, scaling a
vertical ascent of about 1300m. How high is that? Perhaps 5.5 times the Westin
Stamford, the highest hotel in our country which scrapes the sky at 77 floors.
I have tasted the mountain, savoured its charm and left enough of my
foot-prints behind. I will leave the summit
as another challenge for another day.